Shankar Bhel House hosts chaat-busters

Shankar Bhel House hosts chaat-busters
Aarthi R | TNN


There are no tables or chairs in this ‘house’, not even enough standing space at times. But this does not stop crowds from flocking to Shankar Bhel House on Wheeler Road in Fraser Town. The bhel house opens at a time when offices close — quite the right time to fill up that little corner in the tummy before heading home — something crispy and crunchy, and very hot.
It is a good corner to bring along family and friends, for an evening of steam and spice, and everything nice. Or as you wait for someone, ‘timepass’ with the dry bhel as starters. There are two dozen chaat varieties available here. It all begins with crushing puris, papdis, cutlets and samosas, but what’s finally served, topped with crisp sev and coriander, is ‘different’. Much of the variation comes with the pinches of masalas, that calls for a perfect balancing act from the hands that dish them up in a jiffy.
While the green masala puri and special bhel still rule as the hot favourites, you cannot resist trying the rest. And in no time at all, you realize you are back for another plate, like Arjun Rajeev, who stays near ITC. “Last week, I was tempted to try this place, as it was always crowded. Now, I’m back for another plate of bhelpuri,” he says.
It’s been close to 30 years now. A father-tobe, Simon Shailendra still remembers his childhood, when he stayed nearby. He would wait for the clock to strike 4.30 pm, when the tiny chaat house opened. He still manages a weekly visit from Lingarajapuram with his wife. “I have grown older, but nothing has changed. It still tastes the same, and is my favourite,” he says.
Not just labourers and local vendors, even those from posh houses don’t mind stopping here. At times, women and children sit on the footpath with their feast, while adjoining bylanes are lined with two-wheelers and cars of customers who prefer the drive-in style. Hamsa alias Lakshmakka (54), a flower vendor, is probably one of the oldest customers. She has tried almost all their lip-smackers many times over. All she has to say in Kannada, pithy and crisp: “Illi chaat, bombaat!”
Y G Raju started this small joint as a parttime venture with a meagre investment of Rs 500 and two workers, in 1979. “We spent the first few months waiting with crossed hands. We had just 10-15 customers a day, but now we make more than 300 plates every evening,” he says proudly, waving to one of his regular customers from HBR Layout.
Besides quality, it is also the commitment that keeps the loyals returning. The 12 employees live in the same house. The counters open only in the evening, but preparation begins at 6.30 am.
The kitchen on the first floor steams with boiling peas, frying puris and papdis, even the puffed rice for the bhel is made here. “Everything is hand-made. Nothing is bought, except vegetables, oil and ingredients to make the masalas,’’ says Raju. And as far as he remembers, he has never had a holiday from work, barring two days every year during Dasara. Many of his customers want him to start branches, but he is certain “Just one and just here’’. Shankar Bhel House on Wheeler Road is open on all days, from 4.30-10.30 pm.
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My husband and I don’t miss an evening at this corner whenever we visit India. We have been married for a little more than a year. This is the third time we are here.
Mrs Anees Ahmed, Sanjaynagar
Each time I come here to visit my friends who live nearby, I ensure that I don’t miss my dahi papdi and special bhel.
Vikas, Banaswadi